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Going The Whole Hog: Everything But The Squeal

Sabine Schneider
Sabine Schneider
Recommended: Everything But The Squeal
Recommended: Everything But The Squeal

Much has been written about some foods – almost too much: Jack ate locusts at the back of Timbuktu, Jill had an unforgettable donkey steak in the Andes and Tom, Dick and Harry stuffed themselves with deep-fried eyeballs in Hokitika.  

In contrast, John Barlow likes the common porker and has written about it in a way that had me in sqeals of laughter. He is a teacher from the UK who lives with his wife and son in Spain. I’m sure the marriage to his Galician, almost vegetarian wife has a lot to do with his witty insights into the soul of the Galician people.  

The northern Spanish province is a meatlover’s paradise, that’s why (and for a whole lot of other reasons) Barlow embarks on a porco-graphical tour of the region. He wants to eat every part of the pig in as many places as possible. It’s all about what goes into the pot, he says and tucks into the national pork-laden dish of cocido, which he considers a chance of indulging in one of the Seven Cardinal Sins without anyone looking disapprovingly. For that reason alone, he says, you really should try stuffing yourself with pork until you almost pass out.

Along with Galician history and culture Barlow lets us partake in local folklore, festivities and, of course, local food. There are a few recipes, too, but most of the cooking (and eating) methods will come to you naturally after trotting through this pork belly-laughter filled stew of a book. If you love your pork - go read and enjoy Everything But The Squeal.

Everything but the Squeal – A year of pigging out in northern Spain by John Barlow. Published by Wakefield Press. Available from most bookshops at about $27.

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Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment. I've got most of Hugh's books and love them. The Nose to Tail Eating sounded so interesting I immediately put it on my wishlist. It's got a part 2, did you know? Being German I'm quite familiar with food made out of pigs' heads and don't find anything peculiar about it. I haven't eaten Bath chaps, but seen a chef prepare it on Youtube. I'd eat that with great delight... Thanks for pointing it out. One more thing - I really try to always buy free range pork because I don't believe in animals being couped up too much. Jamming sows into crates definitely doesn't create my kind of pork...

I'll have to track this

I'll have to track this down. It'll be a good companion to Nose To Tail Eating by the British writer and restaurateur Fergus Henderson and the River Cottage series from Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, both of whom advocate a "holistic" approach to eating pork. The more adventurous eater should try the English "Bath chaps", which sounds like a club for toffs, but is actually a traditional West Country dish made from pig's head.